Now Forage

Bay laurel: Pick leaves year-round; fresh or dried. Mature, dark green leaves have more essential oils than young pale ones. Dry in bunches for full flavour. Black berries in autumn are not edible.

Lemon: Fully yellow with no green remaining; skin slightly glossy and gives a little when squeezed. Heavy for its size indicates juiciness. Unlike most fruit, lemons can hang on the tree for months once ripe without deteriorating.

Loquat: Clusters of orange-yellow fruit; ripe when fully orange with no green, yields to gentle pressure, and comes off the stem with a slight tug. Very sweet and aromatic when right — mealy if overripe. Short shelf life after picking.

Olive: Harvest time depends on intended use: green olives (October, firm, very bitter — require curing); turning olives (November, red-purple, half-ripe — for oil or eating); black olives (December, fully ripe, shrivelling — sweeter, for oil). All must be cured before eating — never eat straight from the tree.

Pomegranate: Skin turns from pale orange to deep red; fruit becomes angular and the blossom end flattens slightly as arils expand. Tap the skin — a ripe pomegranate sounds metallic. Heavy for its size. A slight crack at the shoulder is fine. Do not wait for it to fall.

Rosemary: Evergreen herb — harvest sprigs year-round. Young, bright green shoot tips have the most flavour. Harvest in the morning after dew dries. Flowers (blue-purple) appear spring through early summer and are edible as a garnish.